Bottega Cini - New Concept Store in Venice Celebrates Excellence

Bottega Cini - Photo: Cat Bauer

(Venice, Italy) Bottega Cini, a new type of museum shop in Venice, is a cause for celebration. It is refreshing to witness the opening of a store that fits so perfectly into the local community, mixing commerce and traditional Venetian culture, positioned in just the right zone. Located directly in front of Palazzo Cini at San Vio in the Dorsoduro district of Venice, Bottega Cini is sure to attract both locals and travelers who visit the Accademia Galleries, the Palazzo Cini Gallery, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Punta della Dogana art collections -- known as the "Dorsoduro Museum Mile."

The store was created from an encounter between three entrepreneurial entities -- The Merchant of Venice, The Vittorio Cini Archive Foundation and Museyoum, each known for excellence in their respective sectors. The aim is to keep centuries-old Venetian artisan production alive -- a Renaissance workshop with a contemporary flair.

Jelena Vesic at the counter of Bottega Cini - Photo: Cat Bauer

THE MERCHANT OF VENICE

Inside the store you will find the perfume art of the Merchant of Venice, created by the Vidal Family, known internationally for their high-quality products for more than a century.

In 1900, Angelo Vidal established a small laboratory for perfumes and soaps in Venice, a city known since ancient times as a center of the perfume industry. In 1986, Massimo Vidal, Angelo's grandson, established Mavive -- an acronym formed by "Massimo Vidal Venezia" -- and launched the company with its beloved Italian brand, Pino Silvestre. Over the years, the company would go on to acquire new brands like Police and Replay.

In December of 2012, there was an intimate press conference held in in the Sala della Bolla at Palazzo Ducale to launch The Merchant of Venice, Mavive's new luxury line of exotic fragrances, which is where I met Massimo Vidal and his son, Marco, 21st century alchemists.

The Merchant of Venice

I was immediately impressed, and wrote a post:

The Merchant of Venice - Noble Secrets of the Art of Perfumery

...With the strong support of the Vidal family, the Venetian owners of the international fragrance company, Mavive, Venice has decided to reveal some of its ancient secrets and perfume recipes, and has reprinted Secreti Nobilissimi dell'Arte Profumatoria by Giovanbattista Rosetti.

Noble Secrets of the Art of Perfumery was first published in Venice in 1555, then reprinted in Bologna in 1672. I am holding the little book in my hand right now... 

The creation of perfumes and cosmetics was considered an art performed by Venetian spezieri, or spice-makers, who, according to Giancarlo Ottolini, were "part alchemists and part physicians who had a sound knowledge of chemistry, herbal medicine and the numerous ingredients (and their properties) that were available at the time"... read more
 

Palazzo Cini

THE PALAZZO CINI GALLERY, THE VITTORIO CINI ARCHIVE FOUNDATION AND YANA CINI ALLIATA DI MONTEREALE

Count Vittorio Cini (1885-1977) was a 20th century entrepreneur, collector, politician, philanthropist and creator of the renowned Giorgio Cini Foundation on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore in Venice, dedicated to the memory of his son, Giorgio, who died in 1949 in a plane crash in Cannes at age 30.

In 1919, Vittorio acquired Palazzo Foscari-Loredan at San Vio and united it with Palazzo Grimani, the adjoining palace, creating the magnificent Palazzo Cini where Vittorio lived with his wife, the actress Lyda Borelli, and their children, Giorgio, Mynna, and the twins Yana and Ylda, who were born in the house. Vittorio Cini was an avid collector, acquiring fine artworks and objects with which he adorned the palazzo. The Vittorio Cini Archive Foundation keeps his impressive life and works alive.

As a child, Yana Cini was stricken with polio. The forced immobilization allowed her to concentrate on reading and developing cultural interests, and gave her a deep sense of empathy to those who suffer.

In 1953, Yana married Prince Fabrizio Alliata di Montereale in a ceremony at Venice's Church of Salute, with a "legendary" reception held at Palazzo Cini. The couple moved to Rome, where they would go on to have five children, the first, Giovanni, born in 1954. But Yana remained committed to her native city, often staying in her father's house and engaging with the Giorgio Cini Foundation's events.

In 1961, Yana founded the "Nido Verde" in Rome for the care and re-education of children afflicted by polio. Through this organization, Yana met Albert Sabin, the medical researcher who developed the oral polio vaccine, credited with nearly eradicating the disease. Sabin encouraged Yana and Fabrizio to form AIL, the Italian Association against Leukemia, Lymphomas and Myeloma. Today, their eldest son, Giovanni Alliata di Montereale, heads the Venice branch of AIL.

Yana left a significant part of her inheritance to the Foundation, including some rooms in Palazzo Cini, the family home, along with a collection of Tuscan paintings and other art objects.

Palazzo Cini Gallery is now a museum house, open to the public. The Gallery is laid out on two floors. The first recreates the refined residence of Vittorio Cini, while the second hosts exhibitions and cultural events.

Veduta del Pantheon d'Agrippa by Piranese - Photo: Cat Bauer

The Basilico Piranesi Rome exhibition kicked off at Palazza Cini Gallery on June 20 as Venice emerged from quarantine, coinciding with the opening of Bottega Cini, just steps away. The exhibition combines the contemporary photography of Gabriele Basilico with the veduta art of Piranesi in honor of the 300th anniversary of the artist's birth. Juxtaposed with the poetic etchings of city views in Rome by Piranesi are contemporary photos of the same scenes by Basilico. The exhibition was curated by the always excellent Luca Massimo Barbero, and runs through November 23, 2020.

Giovanni Alliata di Montereale & Marco Vidal safe distancing at Bottega Cini - Photo: Cat Bauer

OSELLA D'ORO AWARD

On the day of the Festa della Sensa, the day that Venice marries the sea, the Osella d'Oro Award is presented by the Festa della Sensa Committee on behalf of the Venice Comune to three institutions, agencies and private citizens who, with their activity in the sectors of culture, commerce and crafts, bring value and prestige to the city of Venice. The "Osella d'Oro" is the reproduction of an ancient Venetian gold coin minted at the time of Doge Mocenigo under the Serenissima Republic.

Last year, Marco Vidal, the CEO of The Merchant of Venice and Giovanni Alliata di Montereale, President of AIL Venezia and Vittorio Cini's grandson, were awarded the prize along with the Master Printer, Gianni Basso. Their commitment and dedication to the city in their respective sectors are part of the ethereal engine that keeps Venice running. Soon after, the idea for Bottega Cini was born.

Museyoum

MUSEYOUM

A new way to experience art and culture using Virtual Reality and Artificial Intelligence, Museyoum was co-founded by Stefano Bergonzoni and Riccardo Ricci. "Museyoum offers user-friendly visiting experiences thanks to an intelligent technology that captures the visitor's interests and offers diversified content by adapting themes and narrative keys linked to the uniqueness of each person. The system is a careful, discreet and interactive virtual assistant that tells, understands and answers direct questions."

Museyoum is a cutting-edge collaborator with the Vittorio Cini Archive Foundation, creating virtual tours and an interactive biography to perpetuate and honor the entrepreneur's memory.

Giovanni Alliata di Montereale at Bottega Cini - Photo: Cat Bauer

The system was not up and running yet on opening day, but it sounds exciting, especially "Raphael - From the Origins to the Myth" that comes to Venice after Urbino in honor of the 500 year anniversary of Raphael's death in 1520.
 

Rosa Moceniga Luxury Hand Cleansing Gel - Photo: Cat Bauer

BOTTEGA CINI

Inside the cultural concept store you will find some of the finest quality products created by artisans who are dedicated to their craft. Bottega Cini is determined to keep alive, develop and expand centuries-old Venetian traditions, as well as providing high quality service and innovative technology. 

VENETIAN GLASS 

NasonMoretti, founded in 1923 by the Nason brothers, set the benchmark for the "art of the table" with their innovative, elegant Venetian glassware. Now the third generation focuses on contemporary designs, and has collaborated with top fashion brands and fine restaurants.

At the core of Ercole Moretti is the murrina, that distinctive mosaic glass that is enchanting to behold. Founded in 1911 by three brothers, today the company is run by the founders' grandchildren using techniques that stretch back to ancient Rome.
 

Marisa Convento at Bottega Cini - Photo: Cat Bauer

The art of the Impiraressa was once prevalent in Venice. It was a profession only performed by women, who would string glass beads produced by the furnaces on Murano. Now it is a rare craft, and the treasured Marisa Convento is the Queen, not only creating distinctive jewelry and original designs, but also passing her knowledge on to future generations. Those of you who know Marisa from her days on Calle della Mandola will be delighted to know that she and her laboratory are ready to welcome you again inside Bottega Cini.

BOOKS 

Two of Venice's most respected publishing houses, Marsilio Editore and Linea d'Acqua, are well-represented at Bottega Cini. They are known for their fine quality books and the excellence of their presentation -- everything from the paper, the bindings, the ink, to the high-quality images. Many of the most important exhibitions in Venice are preserved within the pages their books, as well as contemporary authors of distinction.

Also represented is Toscolano 1381, carrying on the tradition of Toscolano, a paper-making center that dates back to the 14th century.  

ROSA MOCENIGA LUXURY HAND CLEANSING GEL

While you are at Bottega Cini, you can purchase a small hand cleansing gel, created especially for the surreal times we live in. The Rosa Moceniga perfume was born from a collaboration between The Merchant of Venice and the author Andrea di Robilant, whose aristocratic Venetian ancestors and their antics have provided a wealth of material. In Chasing the Rose, Andrea goes on a quest to find the origins of a pink rose growing wild on his family's former country estate, which leads him all the way back to Napoleon's court. I've been fortunate enough to inhale the fragrance of the actual rose -- the Rosa Moceniga itself -- and can confirm that The Merchant of Venice has miraculously captured its scent -- even in a hand cleansing gel!

Bottega Cini's website is still under construction, but you can find more information here.

Ciao from Venezia,
Cat Bauer
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Venice: Better than we can Imagine - European Travelers Return

Basilica of San Marco with Seagull - Photo: Cat Bauer

(Venice, Italy) On June 3, Italy reopened its borders to travelers from Europe. For the first time since March 8, Venice could welcome visitors from outside Italy. The question was, after three months of quarantine, would the outside world return? I am happy to report that not only are visitors beginning to return, new travelers are coming to Venice to see the Lagoon city for the first time, and bringing with them a new sense of wonder.

Line to enter Palazzo Ducale - Photo: Cat Bauer

Yesterday, Saturday, June 13, the Palazzo Ducale opened its doors for the first time in months. After days of rain and even a bizarre downpour of sleet, the day was clear and sunny. At 4pm, the line to enter the Doge's Palace without reservations still stretched under the sottoportico and into Piazza San Marco. I took an informal survey to find out where the visitors were from. Many were from other regions in Italy like Puglia and Como, snatching the opportunity to see Venice during this special time. But the weekend also coincided with a public holiday in certain states in Germany, the Feast of Corpus Christi, which fell on Thursday, and allowed for a long weekend. I spoke to one German family -- a father, mother and two children -- who had never been to Venice before.

Gondoliers back at work - Photo: Cat Bauer

The father said, "We've always wanted to see Venice. And we thought, if not now, then when?" I told him that I had been a resident for 22 years, and wondered how it felt to see Venice for the first time. He was ecstatic. "It is better than anything we can imagine. We've seen photos. We've read about it. But the reality is beyond our imaginations."

His words struck me. Often when we set off on a journey, our imaginations exaggerate what we hope we will see. There is often a sense of disappointment when the reality does not match the fantasy. But the magic and beauty of Venice at this point and time, void of the over-tourism, is an astonishing experience. Similar to how we could see the fish and octopuses swimming in the canals because the water was so clear, we can see Venice in all her majesty without the hordes of tourists clouding the view.

Caffè Florian (staff, lower left) - Photo: Cat Bauer (for Elizabeth)

I stopped by the Caffé Florian, beloved by travelers and Venetians alike, which had just reopened on Friday. The staff was elated by the joyful world-wide response to their reopening that had spread across social media, and have a message: "We are waiting for you!"

Mask-maker Sergio Boldrin - Photo: Cat Bauer

Over at Rialto, mask-maker Sergio Boldrin of Bottega dei Mascareri had also reopened on Friday, and was planning to slowly restart. During quarantine, he has been working on several new projects that still need attention. "I will be here on Saturdays, and then off and on as more visitors return. I don't plan to come in if it's raining," he smiled.

We both marveled (again) about why there were so few actual coronavirus cases in Venice, and why we were not infected, especially because we both had participated to such an extent in Carnevale. Sergio said, "I don't know a single person who had the virus. How can this be? I have a theory. Because we are so used to interacting with visitors all over the world, we have built up our own immunity."

I had arrived at the same conclusion before herd immunity was even a thing. I like to imagine that there is something sacred in the water that flows from the fountains throughout the city, like Venice's own Holy Water. Or maybe there's an ancient immunity embedded in the stones and the marbles, left over from so many centuries of handling the plague. Whatever the reason, as I have said repeatedly, the historic center of Venice was never overwhelmed by COVID-19, with only a handful of cases -- contrary to how the situation was portrayed in the media.

Children in Campo Santa Margheria (center), drinks in Santa Stefano (lower left), gelato at Nico's (lower right)

Wherever I went, the calli and campi were filled with life, mostly locals with a dash of travelers who really seemed to appreciate that they were actually in Venice, not stuck inside their own homes. The pace was relaxed, not frantic and overwhelming as it had been before the pandemic. Children and dogs played in the campi as their parents chatted over drinks and gelato. It was marvelous because it  was just so normal -- well, as normal as a singular city such as Venice can be. 

Annual travelers from Germany with Lola - like coming home

On the Accademia Bridge a couple caught my eye because of their traveling companion, an Airedale named Lola -- I once had an Airedale, who has a special place in my heart. It turned out that they, too, were from Germany, and came to Venice every year, especially to see La Biennale -- an event that is sadly missing this year -- Biennale Architeture has been postponed until 2021, and Biennale Art until 2022, although the rest of the sectors will take place starting at the end of August with the Venice Film Festival. They said that Venice is like a second home to them, so they came to experience the city at this unique moment in time. As I have said before, these types of travelers are an essential part of the fabric that makes up Venice, and are a vibrant part of the community.

Demonstration on the Zattare - Photo: Cat Bauer

On the Zattare, there was a massive demonstration by No Grand Navi and other groups, protesting against everything from cruise ships, to the incinerator at Fusina, to the lack of housing for residents, to over-tourism -- a mobilization to build a positive future for Venice based on protecting the environment and the health of its citizens, not profit and greed. It was a reminder that the battle that has been raging for decades is not over, as private interests targeting Venice gear up to get back in the game. The demonstration was especially meaningful set against the gentle backdrop of the reopening of the city, as the fight to preserve the soul of Venice takes on a new urgency.

Yes, Venice is better than anything we can imagine, with palaces and churches constructed by enlightened personalities on strong foundations that have lasted for centuries. But as we saw during quarantine, Venice is not alive without its residents, who must be given top priority and respect. When I think of that German family traveling to Venice for the first time, straight out of a global pandemic, and the everlasting impression it will have on their children -- what a great reward! How heartening it would be if all visitors to Venice arrived with the same sense of wonder and appreciation as the first visitors from Europe.

Ciao from Venezia,
Cat Bauer
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog