The Black Madonna - Panagia Mesopantitisa, Venice - Festa della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer |
The plague first struck Venice in 1575. Desperate for relief, in 1577 the Venetian Senate decided to build a church in honor of Christ the Redeemer if God would end the plague. That worked (for a while), and the city of Venice has the magnificent Church of Redentore to show for it.
Church of Redentore - Photo: Cat Bauer |
On October 22, 1630, Contarini ordained that the church be built. The 26-year-old architect Baldassare Longhena won the competition to design it. Work started in 1631 and was finished in 1687; it was consecrated in 1681.
Church of Madonna della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer |
Longhena wrote:
"I have created a church in the form of a rotunda, a work of new invention, not built in Venice, a work very worthy and desired by many. This church, having the mystery of its dedication, being dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, made me think, with what little talent God has bestowed upon me of building the church in the ... shape of a crown."The centerpiece of the awesome Salute Church is the Panagia Mesopantitisa, a very wise Byzantine Black Madonna, who never fails to fill me with deep emotion. The Panagia Mesopantitisa gets all dolled up for the occasion, and puts on her finest jewels. If we understand where she comes from, perhaps we can understand why the Venetians gave her the starring role in such an impressive church.
Madonna della Salute in all her finery - Photo: Cat Bauer |
The Panagia Mesopantitisa is from Candia, which was a Greek city originally named Chandax on the island of Crete. The Venetians bought the city for strategic purposes back in 1204 after the Fourth Crusade, and colonized the town. They held onto it for 465 years until 1669 after losing the famous War of Candia (1645-1669), a 21-year battle with the Ottoman Turks for possession of Crete.
The city is now named Heraklion, and is again part of Greece, and that is where the Eastern Orthodox Black Madonna named Panagia Mesopantitisa, ‘Madonna the Mediator’ comes from. She was brought to Venice by Doge Francesco Morosini after Candia fell into the clutches of the Ottomans and the Islamic culture. The sacred Christian icon was then given the honor of presiding over the high altar in the new and glorious church built to honor the Mother of Jesus Christ.
From the Venice Comune:
Next I always stand directly in the rose mosaic circle under the enormous chandelier that dangles from the center of the dome, and get one of my power charges for the year. In the center of the mosaic is a bronze circle engraved with the words Unde Origo Inde Salus MDCXXXI, which means "From the origin comes salvation, 1631."
The crowd surges against the high altar until the young guards controlling the scene allow everyone to pass. You then wander back through the Sacristy, where you can buy little prayer cards and rosaries and gaze upon precious art by Titian and Tintoretto, and the first Pope John Paul's vestments -- who was, of course, Venetian, and died after only 33 days as Pope. For some reason, seeing the sweet Papa's actual clothes made me teary-eyed.
(Those elaborate wooden carvings on the choir stalls behind the high altar were so bizarre I had to take a photo of them.)
Then everyone pours back out down the steps and over to the endless stalls of sweets from Sicily and enormous balloons for the kids -- for Festa della Salute is a day when every kid in Venice proudly marches through the city clutching their carefully-chosen balloon.
One great thing about living in a Catholic country is that there are many miracles and lots of White Magic floating through the air, and Venice definitely has its own interpretations and rituals. So far, the Madonna della Salute has worked her magic, and kept me healthy and protected under extreme circumstances, so here is a little prayer to share:
And remember, when your Republic really gets into trouble there is only one way out: SAY YOU'RE SORRY AND THEN BUILD A SPECTACULAR CHURCH GRAND ENOUGH TO CATCH THE EYE OF THE MADONNA OR JESUS CHRIST! It works!
Ciao from Venezia,
Cat Bauer
Venetian Cat -The Venice Blog
The city is now named Heraklion, and is again part of Greece, and that is where the Eastern Orthodox Black Madonna named Panagia Mesopantitisa, ‘Madonna the Mediator’ comes from. She was brought to Venice by Doge Francesco Morosini after Candia fell into the clutches of the Ottomans and the Islamic culture. The sacred Christian icon was then given the honor of presiding over the high altar in the new and glorious church built to honor the Mother of Jesus Christ.
From the Venice Comune:
"The Festa della Salute is probably the least "touristy" of the Venetian festivities and evokes strong religious feelings among the city's inhabitants.
The holiday is, like the Redentore, in memory of another bout of pestilence, which lasted for two years from 1630-31, and the subsequent vow by the Doge to obtain the intercession of the Virgin Mary.After you buy your candle, you bring it inside the church and hand it to one of the candle lighters -- if left to our own devices, there is a strong possibility we would burn ourselves up given the size of the crowds.
Even today, thousands of inhabitants visit the main altar of the imposing Salute Church on November 21 to give thanks, and a strong symbolic tie remains between the city and the Virgin Mary."
Next I always stand directly in the rose mosaic circle under the enormous chandelier that dangles from the center of the dome, and get one of my power charges for the year. In the center of the mosaic is a bronze circle engraved with the words Unde Origo Inde Salus MDCXXXI, which means "From the origin comes salvation, 1631."
Unde Origo Inde Salus MDCXXXI in Church of Madonna della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer |
Wood carving on seat - right |
Wood carving on seat - left |
One great thing about living in a Catholic country is that there are many miracles and lots of White Magic floating through the air, and Venice definitely has its own interpretations and rituals. So far, the Madonna della Salute has worked her magic, and kept me healthy and protected under extreme circumstances, so here is a little prayer to share:
Maria, salute degli infermi, prega per noi.
And remember, when your Republic really gets into trouble there is only one way out: SAY YOU'RE SORRY AND THEN BUILD A SPECTACULAR CHURCH GRAND ENOUGH TO CATCH THE EYE OF THE MADONNA OR JESUS CHRIST! It works!
Ciao from Venezia,
Cat Bauer
Venetian Cat -The Venice Blog
During the fifteen years I've lived in Venice, I have rarely missed the Festa of the Madonna della Salute on November 21.
ReplyDeleteGrazie! thank you so much for this.
ReplyDeleteThank you for this article. I have been to Redentore and it is my dream to attend this feast also.. Michael from Australia
ReplyDeleteThank you for reading, Michael. The Festa della Madonna della Salute is very different than Redentore, which has become overwhelmed by tourists. There are no fireworks -- there are candles and Catholic mass. It is more spiritual, like making a yearly pilgrimage and praying to the Madonna for good health (Salute=Health)and eating traditional food with family and friends. It is very beautiful, and was especially meaningful this year, after the flood. Best wishes, Cat
Deletethanks for your reply Cat Bauer I logged on to your blog a year later and see your kind reply above.. I am very happy for Salute to be more spiritual in nature - who knows maybe in 2022 it will be possible to visit ? Best Wishes
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