Venice: Better than we can Imagine - European Travelers Return

Basilica of San Marco with Seagull - Photo: Cat Bauer

(Venice, Italy) On June 3, Italy reopened its borders to travelers from Europe. For the first time since March 8, Venice could welcome visitors from outside Italy. The question was, after three months of quarantine, would the outside world return? I am happy to report that not only are visitors beginning to return, new travelers are coming to Venice to see the Lagoon city for the first time, and bringing with them a new sense of wonder.

Line to enter Palazzo Ducale - Photo: Cat Bauer

Yesterday, Saturday, June 13, the Palazzo Ducale opened its doors for the first time in months. After days of rain and even a bizarre downpour of sleet, the day was clear and sunny. At 4pm, the line to enter the Doge's Palace without reservations still stretched under the sottoportico and into Piazza San Marco. I took an informal survey to find out where the visitors were from. Many were from other regions in Italy like Puglia and Como, snatching the opportunity to see Venice during this special time. But the weekend also coincided with a public holiday in certain states in Germany, the Feast of Corpus Christi, which fell on Thursday, and allowed for a long weekend. I spoke to one German family -- a father, mother and two children -- who had never been to Venice before.

Gondoliers back at work - Photo: Cat Bauer

The father said, "We've always wanted to see Venice. And we thought, if not now, then when?" I told him that I had been a resident for 22 years, and wondered how it felt to see Venice for the first time. He was ecstatic. "It is better than anything we can imagine. We've seen photos. We've read about it. But the reality is beyond our imaginations."

His words struck me. Often when we set off on a journey, our imaginations exaggerate what we hope we will see. There is often a sense of disappointment when the reality does not match the fantasy. But the magic and beauty of Venice at this point and time, void of the over-tourism, is an astonishing experience. Similar to how we could see the fish and octopuses swimming in the canals because the water was so clear, we can see Venice in all her majesty without the hordes of tourists clouding the view.

Caffè Florian (staff, lower left) - Photo: Cat Bauer (for Elizabeth)

I stopped by the Caffé Florian, beloved by travelers and Venetians alike, which had just reopened on Friday. The staff was elated by the joyful world-wide response to their reopening that had spread across social media, and have a message: "We are waiting for you!"

Mask-maker Sergio Boldrin - Photo: Cat Bauer

Over at Rialto, mask-maker Sergio Boldrin of Bottega dei Mascareri had also reopened on Friday, and was planning to slowly restart. During quarantine, he has been working on several new projects that still need attention. "I will be here on Saturdays, and then off and on as more visitors return. I don't plan to come in if it's raining," he smiled.

We both marveled (again) about why there were so few actual coronavirus cases in Venice, and why we were not infected, especially because we both had participated to such an extent in Carnevale. Sergio said, "I don't know a single person who had the virus. How can this be? I have a theory. Because we are so used to interacting with visitors all over the world, we have built up our own immunity."

I had arrived at the same conclusion before herd immunity was even a thing. I like to imagine that there is something sacred in the water that flows from the fountains throughout the city, like Venice's own Holy Water. Or maybe there's an ancient immunity embedded in the stones and the marbles, left over from so many centuries of handling the plague. Whatever the reason, as I have said repeatedly, the historic center of Venice was never overwhelmed by COVID-19, with only a handful of cases -- contrary to how the situation was portrayed in the media.

Children in Campo Santa Margheria (center), drinks in Santa Stefano (lower left), gelato at Nico's (lower right)

Wherever I went, the calli and campi were filled with life, mostly locals with a dash of travelers who really seemed to appreciate that they were actually in Venice, not stuck inside their own homes. The pace was relaxed, not frantic and overwhelming as it had been before the pandemic. Children and dogs played in the campi as their parents chatted over drinks and gelato. It was marvelous because it  was just so normal -- well, as normal as a singular city such as Venice can be. 

Annual travelers from Germany with Lola - like coming home

On the Accademia Bridge a couple caught my eye because of their traveling companion, an Airedale named Lola -- I once had an Airedale, who has a special place in my heart. It turned out that they, too, were from Germany, and came to Venice every year, especially to see La Biennale -- an event that is sadly missing this year -- Biennale Architeture has been postponed until 2021, and Biennale Art until 2022, although the rest of the sectors will take place starting at the end of August with the Venice Film Festival. They said that Venice is like a second home to them, so they came to experience the city at this unique moment in time. As I have said before, these types of travelers are an essential part of the fabric that makes up Venice, and are a vibrant part of the community.

Demonstration on the Zattare - Photo: Cat Bauer

On the Zattare, there was a massive demonstration by No Grand Navi and other groups, protesting against everything from cruise ships, to the incinerator at Fusina, to the lack of housing for residents, to over-tourism -- a mobilization to build a positive future for Venice based on protecting the environment and the health of its citizens, not profit and greed. It was a reminder that the battle that has been raging for decades is not over, as private interests targeting Venice gear up to get back in the game. The demonstration was especially meaningful set against the gentle backdrop of the reopening of the city, as the fight to preserve the soul of Venice takes on a new urgency.

Yes, Venice is better than anything we can imagine, with palaces and churches constructed by enlightened personalities on strong foundations that have lasted for centuries. But as we saw during quarantine, Venice is not alive without its residents, who must be given top priority and respect. When I think of that German family traveling to Venice for the first time, straight out of a global pandemic, and the everlasting impression it will have on their children -- what a great reward! How heartening it would be if all visitors to Venice arrived with the same sense of wonder and appreciation as the first visitors from Europe.

Ciao from Venezia,
Cat Bauer
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog